Category Archives: Bordeaux

Life In Bordeaux: The Wrap Up

Bordeaux: Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte - Day OneOn our last morning, we met with Château Smith Haut Lafitte’s winemaker Fabien Teitgen, who highlighted the nuances of the terroir and the challenges of organic and biodynamic winemaking in Bordeaux. To sum it up in one sentence: it’s all in the soil. This Château is also one of the few in Bordeaux to still have its own cooper, producing a mere three barrels a day. To select the wood for their barrels (100% french oak), and evidence of the meticulous nature of Fabien’s wine-making, Fabien and the cooper head deep into the forest to literally lick and chew on wood and bark to select their materials.

Negociant JoanneWe concluded our tour with a visit to Joanne, one of the major negociant houses of Bordeaux. This business is owned by the Casteja family, whom we met in Barsac at Doisy-Verdrines. Top Bordeaux wine is sold like stocks in a unique trade system, where wine from Chateaux named as Grand Crus Classés (great classified growths) are purchased as ‘futures’ when they are still in barrel. We had the opportunity to visit one of the warehouses where these wines, once bottled, are stored and to learn about the role of a negociant in the Bordeaux trade from the Casteja brothers, Olivier and Eric.

Negociant JoanneThe exterior of the Joanne warehouse is like any other – nondescript. However, inside is a different story. Soft lighting illuminates pallets of wine from the most famous Chateaux – Haut Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Latour – that are stored in beautiful wooden cases, stacked from floor to ceiling, and the walls are adorned with massive pieces of wine-inspired modern art. This space houses hundreds of millions of dollars worth of stock, not to mention the wine owned by Joanne that is still in barrel at their respective Chateaux. Our hosts explained the intricacies and politics of the trade over a casual lunch, as we poured ourselves glasses of their generous offerings from the region. This was the pinnacle learning experience that tied this Bordeaux tour together.

The Best of Bordeaux

Bordeaux: Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte - Day One
Our Bordeaux tour was led by Master of Wine, James Cluer, who had arranged for us to be hosted at some of the top Chateaux of Bordeaux, properties that are not normally open to the public.

Our accommodations were at Smith Haut Lafitte’s luxurious 5-star hotel, Les Sources de Caudalie, steps from the winery and surrounded by vineyards with a world-renowned spa and a Michelin 2-star restaurant.

Bordeaux: Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte - Day OneOur tour began at our doorstep at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, one of the top properties in Pessac Leognan. We visited their on-site cooperage followed by a tasting at the home of the gracious Cathiards and a look inside their private underground cellar, with its hidden James-Bond style entrance – a secret door in the floor which opens by remote. We finished the day at the property’s restaurant with a 4-course wine paired dinner.

Onto the Medoc

Chateau MargauxWhat better introduction to the Medoc than Château Margaux. This is classified as a first growth (Premier Cru Classé), considered by most to produce the greatest wines of Bordeaux. We snapped the famous shot of the Château and headed to the cellars for our tour and tasting.

Château Pichon Lalande, PauillacChâteau Pichon Lalande, PauillacOnward to Château Pichon Lalande to the commune of Pauillac, where we watched the wines being racked in barrels as they matured in their first year chai (cellar). We then enjoyed an exquisite lunch with the head of the property, Gildas d’Ollone. Over lunch Gildas shared his stories of the Bordeaux wine trade, including his visits from Robert Parker, and his endearing tales of his aunt, Madame May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, who through an iron fist transformed the property to the super second growth that it is today.

Château Cos D'Estournel, Saint-Estèphe in the Medoc, Bordeaux FranceNext we headed to the far north of the Medoc to the commune of Saint-Estèphe, home to some of the most powerful and long-lasting wines of the world. We visited Château Cos d’Estournel, a second growth property run by the Prat family, where the oriental inspired architecture, complete with pagoda towers, matches the rich flavours of the wines. This property uses cutting edge innovations, showcased in a futuristic winery that we viewed from an overhead catwalk, to produce wines that are approachable at a much younger age than most from this region.

Bordeaux - Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint Julien
Bordeaux - Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint Julien
Heading back south to the commune of Saint-Julien, we had the great fortune of being hosted by Bruno Borie, owner of the Ducru Beaucaillou estate, another leading second growth Chateau of the Medoc. We first took a stroll through the property with Bruno to the banks of the Gironde estuary. This was followed by a tasting in his cellars and a dinner paired with a selection of his wines in the main dining room of the Château. After hours filled with much mirth and spectacular wines, the charming Bruno bid each of us bonne nuit.

The Big Hitters of the Right Bank: Bordeaux

St Émilion, Bordeaux
We began our journey on the Right Bank of Bordeaux in the historic town of Saint-Émilion. Saint-Émilion is a world heritage site and picturesque town with quaint wine shops, local jewelers and outdoor cafes offering panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards that take your breath away.

Château Le Bon Pasteur, PomerolChâteau Le Bon Pasteur was a highlight. Located in Pomerol, this highly regarded Château, owned by world famous flying winemaker Michel Rolland, is very unassuming. We quickly learned that behind the humble exterior lay new and modern technologies in wine-making that are paving the way for the future of wine. Michel’s son-in-law, David Lesage, hosted our visit. We enjoyed an extravagant lunch in the Rolland home, accompanied by comparison wine flights from different vineyards. We also had the honour of conversing and learning from Michel’s wife Dany.

Château Cheval Blanc, St. ÉmilionAfter lunch we travelled the short distance to the peak of Saint-Émilion, to the legendary Château Cheval Blanc. This property was purchased by the luxury goods group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMC) in 1998 and is considered, along with Château Pavie, to be one of the top two properties of this commune. Château Cheval Blanc, St. ÉmilionThe wines from Cheval Blanc, which are Cabernet Franc dominant rather than the classic Merlot based wines of its’ neighbours, are quite opulent.

Château Pavie, Saint-ÉmilionChâteau Pavie, classified as a Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) in Saint-Émilion is one of the most technically advanced wineries in Bordeaux. We spent our afternoon with Henrique da Costa, the winemaker and son in law to owner Gérard Perse. Since purchasing the winery in 1998, Perse has produced more modern-styled big, fruity wines, pleasuring the palate of the likes of Robert Parker Jr., who recently awarded some Pavie vintages with 100 points. Château Pavie, Saint-ÉmilionThese wines have a balance of remarkable power and polished finesse. The property embodies modernism, with state of the art equipment to handle the single plot fermentation, a barrel cellar that is both beautiful and efficient, a sophisticated sound system so classical music can soar through the winery, “talking” to the wines, and an art collection Christie’s would envy.

After we tasted these exquisite wines, Henrique escorted us to his father-in-law’s Michelin 2-star restaurant, Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint-Émilion, for an outstanding nine-course tasting menu paired with wines from the Perse Chateaux, including Château Monbousquet and Château Pavie.

Sauternes: How Sweet It Is

Château Doisy-Védrines, Barsac, SauternesWe spent a day in the sub-region of Sauternes, home of the greatest sweet wines in the world. We were welcomed at Château Doisy-Védrines by the owner Olivier Casteja for a tour the property and a lunch in his modest, 2-storey farmhouse. Doisy-Védrines is situated in Barsac, within the Sauternes appellation, and has been owned by the Casteja family for generations. Château Doisy-Védrines, Barsac, SauternesOlivier toured us through the vineyards, explaining the process with which they make their sweet wines. He highlighted their low yields, the effects of Botrytis rot on the grapes and the arduous hand-harvesting procedure that spans for weeks to months; each step essential to the final product. Our 5-course lunch was paired with Doisy wines, with vintages dating back to 1970. It was fascinating to experience how well the sweet wines paired with each course.

Château d’Yquem, SauternesThe iconic Château d’Yquem is considered to produce the finest dessert wine in the world. During this rare opportunity to tour the property, we learned about the laborious process of making this exceptional wine. Sauternes is produced by grapes which have been attacked by a fungus called Botrytis cinerea, also known as Noble Rot, that partially raisinates the grapes. Château Doisy-Védrines, Barsac, SauternesA unique combination of weather is required in order for noble rot to take form (cool misty mornings followed by warm dry afternoons) otherwise grey rot will develop, spoiling the grapes. Hand harvested one grape at a time over multiple passes through the vineyard (up to 14 for d’Yquem), the production of this wine is not only painstaking, but also a gamble with nature, as some years, when the conditions are not ideal, no wine is produced. The wines are reflectively expensive. Château d’Yquem, SauternesHowever a good Sauternes is an experience like no other for the senses. This nectar is deep gold in colour, lusciously sweet yet zesty and fresh, with rich tropical and earthy aromas and flavours that linger in your mouth for a very long time.