Category Archives: France

Life In Bordeaux: The Wrap Up

Posted by Megan Mallen on May 13, 2011 No comments

As if our tour of Bordeaux could get any better, on our last morning, we got ‘down to the dirt’ with Château Smith Haut Lafitte’s winemaker Fabien Teitgen, who highlighted the nuances of the terroir and the challenges of organic and biodynamic winemaking in Bordeaux. To sum it up in one sentence: it’s all in the soil! This Château is also one of the few in Bordeaux to still have its own cooper, producing a mere three barrels a day. No rest for the weary. To select the wood for their barrels (100% french oak of course), Fabien and the cooper head deep into the forest to literally lick and chew on wood and bark to select their materials. If that is not an indication of the meticulous nature of Fabien’s wine-making process, we don’t know what is.

We concluded our heavy hitting tour with a visit to Joanne, one of the major negociant houses of Bordeaux. This business is owned by the Casteja family, whom we met in Barsac at Doisy-Verdrines. Top Bordeaux wine is sold like stocks in a unique trade system, where wine from Chateaux named as Grand Crus Classés (great classified growths) are purchased as ‘futures’ when they are still in barrel. We had the opportunity to visit one of the warehouses where these wines are stored once bottled and learn about the role of a negociant in the Bordeaux trade from the lovely Casteja brothers, Olivier and Eric.

The exterior of the Joanne warehouse is like any other – nondescript. However, inside is a different story. Soft lighting illuminates pallets of wine from the most famous Chateaux – Haut Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Latour – that are stored in beautiful wooden cases, stacked from floor to ceiling, and the walls are adorned with massive pieces of wine-inspired modern art. This space houses hundreds of millions of dollars worth of stock, not to mention the wine owned by Joanne that is still in barrel at their respective Chateaux. Our hosts explained the intricacies and politics of the trade over a casual lunch, as we poured ourselves glasses of their generous offerings from the region. This was the pinnacle learning experience that tied the whole tour together.

After lunch we headed back to the hotel to collect our bags and begin the long and treacherous journey back to real life. Throughout this incredible week, our travel companions had become a second family and it was time to bid them a teary ‘au revoir’. Our expectations had been far exceeded. A huge thank you to James and Sondra Cluer of Fine Vintage for all of their efforts in coordinating this week and making it happen. We still go to bed each night wishing we could wake up in our room at Les Sources de Caudalie on Day One and hit repeat. Truly an experience of a lifetime!

The Best of Bordeaux

Posted by Megan Mallen on May 10, 2011 No comments

So the time had finally arrived. Nine months of waiting, saving, planning, and our Bordeaux tour was upon us. Led by Master of Wine, James Cluer, we were about to be be hosted at some of the top Chateaux of Bordeaux, properties that are not normally open to the public. To add to the excitement, our tour of 24 people included 7 friends and tasting pals, who we met through our studies at Fine Vintage. For two wine geeks, it was Christmas morning.

We arrived in Bordeaux late in the afternoon, bid our beloved Peugeot adieu and made the brief trip to Smith Haut Lafitte’s luxury 5 star hotel, Les Sources de Caudalie. This heaven on earth property is steps from the winery, surrounded by vineyards, has a world renowned spa, a Michelin two star restaurant and lucky for us, was home for a week.

Our epic tour began at our doorstep at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, one of the top properties in Pessac Leognan. We visited their on-site cooperage followed by a tasting at the home of the gracious Cathiards, and then got a peek inside their private underground cellar, with its’ hidden James-Bond style entrance. We finished the day at the property’s restaurant with a 4-course wine paired dinner.

Onto the Medoc!

What better introduction to the Medoc than Château Margaux. This is classified as a first growth (Premier Cru Classé), considered by most to produce the greatest wines of Bordeaux. We snapped the famous shot of the Château and headed to the cellars for our tour and tasting. This set the tone for the day.

Onward to Château Pichon Lalande to the commune of Pauillac, where we watched the wines being racked in barrels as they matured in their first year chai (cellar). We then enjoyed an exquisite lunch with the head of the property, Gildas d’Ollone. Over lunch Gildas shared his stories of the Bordeaux wine trade, including his visits from Robert Parker, and his endearing tales of his aunt, Madame May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, who through an iron fist transformed the property to the super second growth that it is today.

Next we headed to the far north of the Medoc to the commune of Saint-Estèphe, home to some of the most powerful and long-lasting wines of the world. We visited Château Cos d’Estournel, a second growth property run by the Prats family, where the oriental inspired architecture, complete with pagoda towers, matches the rich flavours of the wines. This property uses cutting edge innovations, showcased in a futuristic winery that we viewed from an overhead catwalk, to produce wines that are approachable at a much younger age than most from this region.

Heading back south to the commune of Saint-Julien, we had the great fortune of being hosted by the sophisticated Bruno Borie, owner of the Ducru Beaucaillou estate, another leading second growth Chateau of the Medoc. We first took a stroll through the property with Bruno to the banks of the Gironde estuary. This was followed by a tasting in his cellars and a dinner paired with a selection of his wines in the main dining room of the Château. After hours filled with many laughs and spectacular wines, our chariot awaited us (aka the bus). As the charming Bruno bid each of us ‘bonne nuit’, we boarded the bus with our violet smiles and wished this magical night would never end…

The Big Hitters of the Right Bank: Bordeaux

Posted by Megan Mallen on March 10, 2011 No comments

Having covered some of the greatest hits of the Left Bank on the first half of our tour, we began our journey on the Right Bank of Bordeaux in the historic town of Saint-Émilion. Saint-Émilion is a world heritage site and picturesque town with quaint wine shops, local jewelers and outdoor cafes offering panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards that take your breath away. With heavy-hitting Chateaux on the days’ agenda, we stayed long enough to get a sense of the town and belt back some espresso before getting back to business (i.e. more wine), starting with the small commune of Pomerol.

Château Le Bon Pasteur was one of the highlights for the group. Located in Pomerol, this Château is owned by none other than the world famous flying winemaker Michel Rolland. This highly regarded estate is very unassuming. We quickly learned that behind the humble-looking exterior lay new and modern technologies in wine-making that are paving the way for the future of wine. Michel’s son-in-law, the handsome and sassy David Lesage, hosted our visit. We enjoyed an extravagant lunch in the Rolland home, accompanied by flight after flight of wine, including samples from different vineyards for comparison. David kept the group highly entertained throughout our stay with his witty remarks and was a hit for all, especially the ladies. Over dessert we had the honour of meeting Michel’s wife, the sophisticated Dany, who came down to see what the hoopla was all about. This stop was hard to top.

After lunch we travelled the short distance (read: not long enough to calm the giggles) to the peak of Saint-Émilion, to the legendary Chateau Cheval Blanc. This property was purchased by the luxury goods group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMC) in 1998 and is considered, along with Chateau Pavie, to be one of the top two properties of this commune. The wines from Cheval Blanc, which are Cabernet Franc dominant rather than the classic Merlot based wines of its’ neighbours, are decadently opulant – fitting for its new owners. We toured the property and winery and left hoping that we will someday have the fortune (literally) to enjoy another glass of this wine.

Château Pavie, classified as a Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) in Saint-Émilion is one of the most technically advanced wineries in Bordeaux. We spent our afternoon with Henrique da Costa, the winemaker and son in law to owner Gérard Perse. Since purchasing the winery in 1998, Perse has produced more modern-styled big, fruity wines, pleasuring the palate of the likes of Robert Parker Jr., who recently awarded some Pavie vintages with 100 points. A controversial property to say the least. These wines have a balance of remarkable power and polished finesse. The property embodies modernism, with state of the art equipment to handle the single plot fermentation, a barrel cellar that is both beautiful and efficient, a sophisticated sound system so classical music can soar through the winery, “talking” to the wines, and an art collection Christie’s would envy.

After we tasted these amazing wines, Henrique escorted us to his father-in-law’s Michelin two star restaurant, Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint-Émilion, but not before he graciously allowed for us gals to freshen up in the Chateau ‘powder room’. After a quick costume change, we were ready to indulge ourselves on what we consider to be one of the greatest meals we will ever experience. How does a nine-course tasting menu paired with wines from the Perse Chateaux, including Chateau Monbousquet and Chateau Pavie grab you? It was, in a word, stunning.

Sauternes: How Sweet It Is

Posted by Megan Mallen on February 19, 2011 No comments

How about a little Sauternes to kick-start your day? While on our trip of a lifetime in Bordeaux, we spent a day in the sub-region of Sauternes, home of the greatest sweet wines in the world. We were welcomed at Château Doisy-Védrines by the owner Olivier Casteja for a tour the property and a lunch in his modest, 2-storey farmhouse. Doisy-Védrines is situated in Barsac, within the Sauternes appellation, and has been owned by the Casteja family for generations. Olivier toured us through the vineyards, explaining the process with which they make their sweet wines. He highlighted their low yields, the effects of Botrytis rot on the grapes and the arduous hand-harvesting procedure that spans for weeks to months; each step essential to the final product. Our 5-course lunch was paired with Doisy wines, with vintages dating back to 1970. It was fascinating to experience how well the sweet wines paired with each course. And what a boost of energy! This sugar jolt left us all riding high for the rest of day. Next stop: d’Yquem.

The iconic Château d’Yquem is considered to produce the finest dessert wine in the world. During this rare opportunity to tour the property, we learned about the laborious process of making this exceptional wine. Sauternes is produced by grapes which have been attacked by a fungus called Botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot, that partially raisinates the grapes. A unique combination of weather is required in order for noble rot to take form (cool misty mornings followed by warm dry afternoons) otherwise grey rot will develop, spoiling the grapes. Hand harvested one ugly grape at a time over multiple passes through the vineyard (up to 14 for d’Yquem), the production of this wine is not only painstaking, but also a gamble with nature, as some years, when the conditions are not ideal, no wine is produced. The wines are reflectively expensive. However a good Sauternes is an experience like no other for the senses. This nectar is deep gold in colour, lusciously sweet yet zesty and fresh, with rich tropical and earthy aromas and flavours that linger in your mouth for a loooooong time.

Barrel Tasting In Burgundy

Posted by Megan Mallen on January 10, 2011 No comments

To fully appreciate the diversity of the terroir of the Côte d’Or in Burgundy one must see it with the naked eye. To feel the soils under your feet, and to appreciate the varying degrees of sun exposure along the Côte, I highly recommend a vineyard run (regardless of how rough around the edges the previous evening’s festivities has rendered you!).

Then there’s the romantic and picturesque town of Beaune. You start your day at one of the many town squares with a perfectly crafted pain au chocolat and a café (read: four), as you witness the town wake up. Breakfast is followed by strolling through the narrow cobblestone roads, picking fresh cheeses, baguettes and local produce for your afternoon picnic, and eventually settling into a cozy chair outside one of the many wine bars to taste wines by the glass as you watch the Beaune world go by. In the evening you descend into one of the dozens of ‘cellar’ restaurants that could double as barrel rooms where you undoubtedly enjoy fine wines and gourmet food from the region. How does foie gras, escargots, coq au vin and boeuf bourgignon all cooked a la bourgignonne – in Burgundian wine – sound? Followed up by enough cheese to sink a ship!

Maison Louis Jadot:

Much to our surprise, Louis Jadot was the favourite visit, and here’s why: considering the current trend of cult/small-grower-preferred wines, we did not expect to receive such a warm, intimate, and ultimately the most memorable, welcome from one of the prominent producers of this region. Jadot has the power of the qi. The winery is in the shape of an octagon, at the heart of which a small platform is perched six feet off the ground under a domed skylight. During long harvest days this is the spot where workers come to re-energize.

Onto the extensive barrel room! Louis Jadot produces an astounding 125 wines, of which we were fortunate to taste 19 from some of the top sites – Puligny Montrachet, Meursault, Chassagne Montrachet, Gevrey-Chambertain, to name a few… and your spittoon comes in the form of the gravel floor underfoot.

Merci to Monsieur Olivier Masmondet, our very fun and very suave host.

Domaine Comte Senard:

There is no better welcome to a Domaine than that from a Grand Cru Chardonnay-eating Golden Retriever. Domaine Comte Senard, located in Aloxe-Corton, is set high up on the Côte with its Grand Cru sites enclosed by an ancient stone clos. They produce the only red Grande Cru in the Côte de Beaune. Comte Senard owns the oldest cellars in Burgundy which they discovered during an expansion, and in their good fortune unearthed intact bottles from the region – what a coup!

Alex Gambal:

In contrast, we capped off our Domaine tours with a visit with Alex Gambal, a modern day Texan making modern wines… in Burgundy? Who would have thought this was possible?! With the Napoleonic Code of land inheritance, farmers rule this region. Alex Gambal has gracefully managed to penetrate the traditional political landscape. He shared some of his tales of trials and tribulations of doing business here where verbal contracts are only as good as the Texan pony he rode in on. Well done Alex.

In Awe of Alsace

Posted by Megan Mallen on December 9, 2010 No comments

Arriving in Alsace by way of Champagne is the way to go. The route heading east takes you over the infamous Vosges Mountain range to a lush valley, more Germanic than French, where Riesling reins supreme. The Alsatian valley is a long and narrow one, dotted with historical villages, each with a steeple peaking through the red-tiled roofs and brightly coloured buildings of yellow, turquoise and red all decorated with bogenvelia spilling from every window sill. It’s not hard to imagine Hansel and Gretel skipping around the corner hand-in-hand.

Alsace is renowned for its production of single noble grape varieties vinified to preserve the freshness and purity of the fruit and the minerality of the soils, packaged in elegant flûted bottles. Typically dry to off-dry, there are also two other classifications of Alsatian wines depending upon the ripeness of the grape: the sweeter styles of Vendange Tardive (Late Harvest) and the botrytis-affected Selection de Grains Nobles. The top examples of Alsatian wines have the ability to age for decades. Organic and biodynamic vinification and minimal intervention winemaking is the status quo for this region.
On our inaugural visit to Alsace, Tracey and I were honoured to have been welcomed into four prestigious domaines.

Clos St Landelin, René Muré
This is clearly a family-driven winery as we were welcomed into the tasting room by René Muré himself, the 11th generation of the business, our purchases of the day were delivered to our car by his son Thomas, and our subsequent correspondences have been with his daughter Véronique. The nurturing and care given by the family to the vines, which surround the domaine, is evident in the glass. Common among many Alsatian winemakers, René Muré produces the full range of varietals and styles of the region.

Domaine André Ostertag
The front gates of the modest Ostertag Domaine open to a tranquil backyard lined with well-tended, biodynamically farmed vines. André classifies his wines into 3 categories, according to the expression of the unique terroirs: ‘Vins de Fruit’ wines emphasize the purity of the fruit, ‘Vins de Pierre’ expresses the soils and ‘Vin de Temps’ includes the wines that have the greatest longevity. The captivating labelling is another personal touch to the wines, as each bottle is adorned with the original artwork of André’s wife. André’s gentle nature revealed itself during a stroll trough his pet project: a small plot of vines that he planted in a yin yang formation above his cellar. It must be said that all 3 styles embody the passion, intensity and austerity of the winemaker himself.

Domaine Weinbach
Colette Faller et ses filles
The wines produced by this family are of outstanding quality as each exhibits the power, character and elegance of the women behind the Domaine. The winery and family home are one, located in the middle of the walled Grand Cru Clos des Capucins. This experience blew our mind. From being greeted at the door by the family monarch, Colette Faller, to tasting 19 unique wines with the stunning and sophisticated Catherine, at the dining room table while Mother prepared the morning breakfast in the adjacent kitchen. Where else in the world would you taste top flight Rieslings to the crackle of bacon and eggs? We reluctantly parted ways, knowing that we will soon meet again, as Catherine hand packaged our order including a few gifts from the house. The experience was exquisite.

Maison Trimbach
Maison Trimbach is a big player from the region, as evidenced by the company with whom we shared the extensive tasting: top buyers from around the world. Led by the young and graceful Anne Trimbach, who commanded the room with ease and charm, we tasted the range of the Trimbach portfolio including back vintage examples of their prestige and collection wines. The wines, especially the Cuvée Frédéric Emile and the domaine’s top wine, Clos Sainte Hune, are benchmark examples of Alsatian Rieslings. We wrapped up our day with a tour through the winery which houses both traditional and modern equipment and the rustic family cellars.

Alsatian wines, with their purity, power and broad food pairing abilities, are enough to draw any wine enthusiast to the region. However it is the charm of the villages and the openness of the people with their emphasis on family that will make every visitor a fan, leaving wanting more.

Needless to say, as we departed for Burgundy and bid Alsace adieu, our luggage bags were downgraded to being stuffed into the back seat of our Peugeot, making room in the temperate trunk for the copious amount of wines we collected along the route. What else would you want with you as a third passenger on a car ride through France?

Paris, je t’aime a cinq heures

Posted by Megan Mallen on December 2, 2008 2 comments

PJ and I were so jet-lagged and wonky in our first few days in Paris from the journey, and more accurately, from the 5-day wedding extravaganza in Newfoundland just prior to, that we were wide awake at the oddest and darkest times. One morning at 5am we took to the streets and explored the city at dawn, alone. If I had to pick one favourite moment, tough to do, but this 2.5 hour lovely walk would rank high. We were the only 2 people in the world strolling the grounds of the Louvre that morning. It was magical.

We told our French friend Fred about our morning and he sent me this:

megsjargon